Day 111 - 20 November 2009: camping in -17C


This is Tibet: -17.5C


The temperature is -17°C by the time we rise for a 7a.m. departure. The whole group is suffering severe numbness in our feet. Helen and Shay are both shivering and possibly hypothermic, and Shay is sent to the cab of the truck, the only part that has heating. The interior of the passenger hold of the truck is frosted allover the ceiling, nevermind the windows. It stays that way for the whole day, barring a brief sunny interlude. 

Cooking in these conditions is impossible. We stop at a town for an early dinner and we all agree that we cannot go on camping in these conditions either. There is a hotel behind the restaurant, which we are told is a former hospital. It is very basic, e.g. no running water and the toilets are of the outhouse hole variety, but they do provide us with a thermos of hot water and tea. Also, there are electric heaters and blankets, so in the circumstances it is luxury. Having paid UK to OZ for all accommodation and transport on the itinerary (excluding our eventual flight from Bali to Darwin), there is some disquiet that we have to pay for tonight’s hotel ourselves (50 to 60 Yuan per person).

Restaurants in this part of the world are often a family’s front room, and the food is simple, e.g. beef & pepper noodles is my favourite, and usually tasty. It helps having our Chinese guide with us, as he can translate the menus and order for us. Laurie and I have been regularly eating in restaurants like these, paying between 15 to 25 Yuan per meal. Not having Kevin with us does risk us ordering without having any idea about what we it is that we have asked for, and there have been some not entirely enticing surprises. However, whenever we eat as a group with Kevin like tonight, we seem to pay a little extra. I have definitely become a severe cheapskate on this journey, but every pound or penny saved may count in the long term. However, it good to be a room somewhat heated by a coal / wood burning stove.




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