Day 105 - 14 November 2009: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo

Much of the group spend the morning hunting down ATMs that will give us money. Mastercard does not seem to be popular here.

Later we visit Tashi Lhunpo monastery, which was founded in 1447 by the first Dalai Lama. This is the official seat of the Panchen Lama, the second most important Buddhist spiritual leader. However, the current official Panchen Lama is a Chinese placement, the originally appointed one having been apprehended with his family by the government in 1995 when he was just six years old. Nothing has been heard or seen of them since.

Joost raised the question about this kidnapping with Dawera, our Tibetan guide. This causes a moment of awkwardness for Dawera and he avoids answering the question.

The monastery is lined with lots of prayer wheels along a perimeter trail going up a zig-zagging steep slope, which makes me feel sorry for the older Buddhists doing their spiritual duty. There are also a number of large Buddha statues scattered throughout the complex. The architecture is of course beautifully ornamental, though not kept pristine as befits its age.

Meg, Dave and Joost negotiating the prayer wheels

 Going down the hill, we have a perfect view of Everest. Well, a comparatively miniature replica of Everest anyway.

Everest (replica)

Video: ghostly spinning prayer wheels

Earlier we had gathered in the courtyard of the main temple and witness the to-ing and fro-ing of the young apprentices in their aging velvet garb before there is a gathering of all the monks and apprentices to go into prayers.

Video: Buddhist monks gathering for prayers....removing boots

I declined to take photos in this one...and definitely no video

There is a sensitivity to taking photos and videos at temples, but a sensitivity that £12.50 for photos and £180!!!! worth of Yuan can buy you out of. All souls have a price it seems.

At lunch, I go to Dico’s, which is kind of like KFC, which has become a favourite with Joost and a few others. Unlike KFC though, I am able to have a prawn burger.

eerily realistic statues in the square below the monastery

After lunch, I went lingering around a market. I am offered a necklace at 45 Yuan (about £4.50), which I refuse. However, the next stall offers the same one for 30 Yuan and I negotiate down to 20, deciding that it would make a nice Christmas present for my mum. However, the next stall, seeing that I had bought the necklace, offered me the same one for 10 Yuan. Moving further along, I am offered the same one for 8 Yuan.

On the way back to the hotel, I discover a dry cleaner which seems to be the local laundry supplier to the army. The army do not like you taking pictures of them, but the ladies here are quite happy to let me take pictures of their freshly laundered uniforms.

We find out later that the truck, which was supposed to be getting a Chinese vehicle license today, could not now do the test because there is a power cut throughout Shigatse. This will effectively cost us two days, with JC having to do a Chinese driving test as well.

The power cut also means that the toilets in the hotel do not flush.