The first thing on the agenda today is to sort out various people’s cash crisis. I am finally able to get some cash out at a Bank of China ATM, although I had managed to get 1000 Yuan (£100) from a Construction Bank of China ATM previously.
Some of us take a trip in the truck to Gyangze for a day. This is the site of the Dzong Castle (or Gyangze Fort) and the Pelkor Chode monastery, the latter of which has a history dating back to the 9th century. The fort was the scene of a battle with the British Army in 1904. Us imperialists won that one I believe, killing three or four thousand Tibetans in the process, but nobody here seems to hold that against us. Now they’ve got the Chinese to worry about, although of course large Tibetan cities are now inhabited densely by the Chinese already.
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| Pelkor Chode Monastery and Gyangze Fort in the distance |
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| Gyangze Fort |
The fort is built rising up a small mountain and it is not apparent that it is open, so I decide to go with Dawera, our Tibetan guide, for a tour around the monastery. Joost, being a castle buff, decides to explore the fort whether it is open or not, taking Meg and Dave with him. They later say it was open, although there were very few visitors, but there are fantastic views over the land. Not being a hugely popular tourist destination, its facade is crumbling somewhat, which adds to its authenticity.
The monastery is home to the Kumbum Stupa (this is a significant spiritual site for Buddhists, so no sniggering at the back). A Stupa is a Buddhist monument built to rise to a pinnacle, or a mound, and this one rises in a pyramid shape featuring lots of small temple coves as you circle your way up. As with all Buddhist temples in Tibet it is important to circle in a clockwise direction, although we find that the opposite applies in some other Buddhist lands. Dawera, who has given me a short lesson on his Buddhist beliefs, points this out to Irishman Shay as he starts to circle one level in the wrong direction, although the sacredness of the site doesn’t stop Dawera flicking his cigarette butt on the floor.
The temples here charge much less for taking photos, and I pay the equivalent to a few pounds to have my fill.
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| thousands of ancient texts |
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| Kumbum Stupa |
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| local transport |
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| not free range, but very probably organic |
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| lunchtime and curious locals |
Despite the occasionally extreme conditions, I am enjoying Tibet. The people are curious but courteous and I am surprising myself by how enjoyable I find exploring the monasteries. The major downside is the excessive presence of the Chinese army, a symptom of the oppressive undercurrent running through this land.
Those of us on the truck, the others having stayed in Shigatze, are enjoying the space provided by the others absence, half the truck having elected to stay in Shigatse. With every seat being full normally, there is a real change into a more relaxed atmosphere.
At night, we bush camp with our food being cooked on a yak dung fire, tour leader Lucinda having bought a bag of it earlier. It burns surprisingly well, which doesn’t say much for the fire prevention regulations here, with many people’s roofs being made of yak dung. I think it will be a while yet until this part of the world is subject to diktats of that ilk of bureaucracy, at least.
Tibet Picture Album: Tibet pictures link
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