Day 91 - 31 October 2009: Day nine of Annapurna Base Camp Trek

When we got to Annapurna Base Camp after four days, I felt an almost heroic sense of achievement. I was confident that we could get back down by the end of the seventh day (29^th Oct), even thought we were taking the longer route to Phedi instead of going back to Naya Pul.

Today, on the 9^th day, we get the Phedi. I have some sort of flu, my ears are in an altitude affected fog, I’m sick to the stomach with diarrhea  and my knees have gone. It was the best I could do to stop myself crying today, even though it was only three hours walk this morning. It probably would have been one hour if I had been fit. I was hoping the path would smooth out as we approached Phedi, but it deceptively and tortuously does the opposite, sloping down into a tight zigzag og rocky steps. At first, the scenery had been calming, as we walked through a lot of grassland and farm area, but this turns into the new hardest day of my life.

 Before the last part of the descent, we pass through a village and I have to stop to buy some unwanted supplies to gain access to a toilet. I am a complete effing train wreck of a man now. In theory, we could have taken a longer route via weaving roads, but I don’t want to get lost and I want to get it over with as soon as possible. I am glad and proud to have completed this without the aid of as guide or porter and carrying what seems like a large weightlifters weight on my back. I am also glad to be writing this lying on a proper mattress with my rucksack on the floor beside me.

the end....

My suggested slogan for the Nepalese Tourism Marketing Board is: ‘Nepal, not for fatties!’

When we got to Phedi, we decide to get a taxi instead of waiting for the cheaper bus alternative, as I can’t bear to wait around.

Back at the hotel I rest while Laurie goes internetting or something. Given that she wanted to quite during our first morning on the trek, I have to hand it to her. I must admit that I don’t think I would have made it all the way down without her. I must also admit that when, during the last most painful part of the descent down the zigzagging steps through the woods, her response to my exclamation that the end of the trail must be coming was to say ‘no, I don’t think so’, I could have biffed her.

At dinner we go for a celebratory steak at the Everest Steak House, although it is a test for my stomach. We chat a little about the rumour mill. I say that she doesn’t do herself any favours to which she responds that she is not looking for any favours. What, not even from yourself?

I then go back to the hotel and watch the football. Liverpool players have no sense of occasion. Fulham 3, Liverpool 1. Bah.