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| the shark net |
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| a fare dodging passenger |
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| City of God? |
Janaya recommended a visit to Manly, a des res peninsula suburb of Sydney on the north lip of the mouth of Sydney Harbour. I knew that it was known for its beaches, but I had decided that I wasn't going to go swimming so didn't bring a change of clothes. The ferry from Circular Quay is full with tourists, and it provides an opportunity to experience Sydney Harbour at its best. The sun is out, the sea birds are perching on the extremities of the boats and from this vantage point, Sydney really does look like a city made by gods.
My wisdom of my decision not to bring swim trunks was reinforced when I saw shark safety nets in the water at the beach at Manly Cove. However, I quickly regret my decision when I realise that I could have rented a kayak to paddle around the aquatic wildlife reserves on the ocean side of Manly.
The Manly Cove beach is small and not much to get excited about, but there is an aquarium on the north end of the beach. Although this is a slight return for me, having visited a similar one in Singapore on Sentosa Island, I pay it a visit realising that the shark nets on the Cove beach are probably there due to the aquarium. Like most modern aquariums, it has an underwater walk through tunnel, and its key attraction is sharks. To the uninitiated, these could be White Sharks, being over three metres long and with menacingly sharp and jagged rows of teeth. However, they are Grey Nurse Sharks which have slightly smaller jaws and have two dorsal fins and, though they don't look much less frightening than the White Shark, they are thought of as placid and relatively harmless to humans.
For me, perhaps the highlight of the aquarium are the giant manta rays, floating along like flapping flying saucers.
It is here in the aquarium that I learn that the shark responsible for the most attacks on humans is the Bull Shark and that they have the highest levels of testosterone of any living being. Though I knew they were potentially dangerous at the time, I am glad I didn't have quite this much information about them when I went diving with them in Thailand.
Leaving the Ocean World Aquarium, I stop for lunch at one of the many seafood restaurants and order a tuna steak, only the second time I have seen it on the menu in Australia. This one is seared with cajun spices and is a good bit of fish, but not quite as good as the raw tuna dish I had at Fishheads at Byron. Also, it doesn't need the cajun spice.
The main Manly beach across the narrow middle of the peninsula to the ocean side, but I take a walk onwards to the north head. The beach at this end is in a rocky cove and the reef here must be teeming with fish as there are schools of scuba divers and countless snorkelers swimming out from the beach, right around to the head.
Above the beachhead, a walking trail begins taking me through bush land and provides some spectacular views over the open Tasman Sea. Eventually I come across the Northern Head National Park information centre, which occupies a building in a former military artillery school. This was most in use during the Vietnam War, and it doesn't look as if it is wholly out of use, though when I peak into one a room in a cabin, I spot a TV which must date from the seventies.
Unfortunately, I don't have time to do the whole walk around Northern Head, but I do get around to the west side overlooking Sydney Harbour, with the legion of sailing boats, speed boats and a tall ship navigating the harbour making me feel very glad to be alive.
When I left Sydney in March, I left a skinny lass from Leeds anxious about facing life in a city of strangers about as far from home as she could be. The Jen I meet at Circular Quay in the evening is strutting confidently towards me with a smile on her face.
She got a job not long after everyone had left her in Sydney and, though she was robbed of her most valuable belongings not long after finding lodgings, she has quickly discovered her capacity for independence. She is also wearing tight jeans, highlighting her quite delightful posterior. Jen is a faithful sort though, and she is faithfully committed to not fancying me. I had intended to treat her to a meal, but she announces that we are going to Bondi to meet up with John and Tracy from our UK to Oz trip, and who are soon departing for home. Also, Jen is now the employed one, so she offers to buy me a meal when we get to Bondi.
Our first stop in Bondi is the Cock 'n' Bull at The Grand Hotel, from which I was ejected by bouncers on St Patrick's night for looking a bit sleepy. We stay there for a while before receiving a call from Tracy to say that they are at a pub nearer the beach and another bus ride away. By the time we meet up with them, we have had a few and we only stay for a couple of drinks.
When we get back to Circular Quay, it is quite late and Jen is going onto one of her housemates' leaving party. She fulfils her promise to buy me a meal though.....at Hungry Jack's (aka Burger King in the rest of the world). Feeling a little tipsy and having said my farewells to Jen, I have to admit that I struggled to hold back a tear as I walked back to the hostel.
Tomorrow, I will be catching the train to Melbourne to stay for a while with my friends Ceri and Dani. I have known Ceri for over twenty years, but I go to bed tonight feeling very alone. When the UK to Oz trip ended in Sydney in March, it was a little anti-climatic as the group faded away in steps rather parted with one great party. Or at least I missed the party having gone to the toilet just before those who remained departed the hostel to go on a pub crawl. Having spent the following month and a half with Caz and Mary, it is only now, having said goodbye to Jen, that I feel as if that chapter has finally closed.
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