Day forty six - 16 September 2009; Esfahan

Esfahan picture album

A few of us start to do the walk around Esfahan recommended in the Lonely Planet, but we only get so far as to see the Haken Mosque and a bazaar due to group mentality dawdling. We then retire to a nice hotel with a covered courtyard for more Chi, despite it being Ramadan.
Hakan Mosque


A Ramadan lunchtime


Bazaar traffic rules
We then walk around Imam Square some more, which now has posters around it advertising government organised protests against the west planned for tomorrow. ‘Down with England, down with America, down with Israel’ they proclaim. Apparently the government blame Britain for unrest surrounding the recent elections, as they say British embassy staff were involved.

shopping for souvenirs
Essex Sam, Brummie Gareth (Garth for irritation factor), Just John and others met some students. They went to the students flat, where there was alcohol (!) and something mellower (!!!). The students say that they plan to hijack the protests to demonstrate against the election results. In fact, we learn later that the demonstration planned in Tehran has been cancelled, probably to stop them being hijacked by anti-government protesters.

After a walk around the Imam Square bazaar, we stop for some Chi at Ali’s carpet shop, the UK to Oz contact in Iran. Here Caroline tries on a coat which the shop staff claim is 180 years old and we pass around a bottle in which they keep their pet scorpions.

scorpion in a bottle
In fact we are often approached by carpet sellers to buy the carpet. At Ali’s we are shown lots of carpets, but not put under any pressure to buy. James, the driver, has bought a carpet, and I think some others have as well, so they are happy just to share Chi with us. I suggest to Meg that the next time we are approached by a carpet salesman, we show them her feet, which are never too clean in her sandals.

People in Iran seem to want to talk about politics. They mostly tell us that they want change, although one shoe shop salesman asks me if I like President Ahmadinejad, whose name I long ago took to pronouncing ‘Im-a-mad-jihadi’. I say I don’t think much of him and he just shrugs. I can’t be sure if this is agreeing to disagree or if he feels he can’t say what he thinks of him.

In the Blue Mosque on Imam Square there is an echo spot under the dome where people stand and clap their hands to get the echo. Meg is told off for jumping on the spot.

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